October 25, 2005
Topic: Rome
We now understand the breakfast routine in holy hotels that actually serve it. We knew enough to ask before sitting down and were shown the right table. Breakfast here includes yoghurt (yum!), huge rolls, cheese and meat; also a passable version of regular coffee.

We decided to take a new walk suggested in the guidebook this morning. We started on the Via Giulia, which is very close, and headed out toward the Tiber River, which we crossed on the Ponte Sisto. From there we walked several back streets to Santa Maria in Trastevere. One of the earliest churches in Rome, this basilica has columns taken from Roman buildings and mosaics from the 12 century. There is also an icon of the Madonna from the 7th century in one of the side chapels.

The were filming a commercial on the piazza, near the Carlo Fontana fountain, so we bought coffee and watched a while before heading toward the Isola Tiberina. Along the way we stopped in at St. Agatha (they have a miraculous Virgin) and St. Crisogono. Last time we were here, this church’s interior was covered with scaffolding, so we couldn’t see much. This time, it was perfect. It’s another early church. Many of the columns came from Roman building, and the pieces of marble used in the floor came from other buildings as well. More beautiful mosaics here.

We crossed the Ponte Cestio to the Isola Tiberina. I’d never been here before. The island has almost always been associated with healing—first pagan gods and later the patron saint of contagious illness. St. Barolomeo all’Isola is here. The side chapels are all dedicated to modern martyrs: the victims of communism, nazisim, the massacre in Rwanda, and so forth. Sobering to think of these people as being martyred, but many were killed due to their religious beliefs.

Next we crossed the Ponte Fabricio, built in 62 B.C. and the oldest bridge still in use in Rome. This took us to the Jewish Ghetto, another place we hadn’t visited before, and another sobering place. Along this part of our walk we saw the synagogue and the Portina of Octavia.

Next stop was Santa Maria in Campitelli, home to a miraculous icon of the Virgin which is said to have saved Rome from the plague. The people were so grateful, they completely remodeled the church for the icon, buiding an amazing altarpiece for it. There are works by a number of Baroque artists here.

Then on passed the Theater of Marcellus, San Nicola in Carcere, the temples of Portunus and Hercules, and ending at Santa Maria in Cosmedin for a quick peek at the Bocca della Verita. We went a bit astray of the way back. Traffic was a mess. There was some kind of manisfestation (demonstration) going on. Carabiniere were everywhere and a helicopter circling overhead. Don’t know what it was about, but we ended up getting off on a side street we didn’t mean to take. That was okay though because we found the longo by Santa Barbara Church and had a quick bite to eat there before coming back to get in our siesta.
We took the Via Giulia walk late this afternoon. It begins with a view of an arch designed by Michelangelo. It crosses the Via Giulia at the Palazzo Farnese. His original plan was to build a walkway from this palace to the Farnese home in Trastevere. Unfortunately, the plan fell through. We then saw Santa Mari dell’Orazione e Morte. Apparently, the group that ran this church took it upon themselves to insure that the unknown dead received Christian burials, Hence, the Baroque fa?ade of the church features winged skulls and an ancient hourglass—another symbol of death.

The Via Giulia continues on passed the old prisons (one now houses the anti-Mafia branch of the Roman P.D., several other churches, and into the Florentine Quarter. Supposedly, Raphael lived along this street at one time. We then took several back streets that parallel the Corso. This is a great way to avoid all the traffic and we found the antique district as well as a very quiet neighborhood where the businesses seemed to be primarily repaur places—furniture, electronics, etc. There also seems to be a booming business in making replica jewelry, copies of pieces from famous paintings and movies.

In 1998, when we brought the kids to Rome, we learned that it’s not easy to find dinner in Rome on New Year’s Eve, because most restaurants sell reservations for special dinners that evening. We just happened to find a place on the Campo di’ Fiori and ended up having one of the best dinners ever. Last time Steve and I were in Rome, the restaurant was closed the whole time we were here. But, it was open tonight and just as good as ever—except now there’s a flat screen television inside…

A few shots from our morning walk: Rome 10-25-05